Definitely new leather, sweet, and without the original A*Men's tarry opening. The leather note is, as Mugler states, created by soaking leather in the perfume concentrate, a rather unique technique, as traditionally leather scent cannot be extracted from leather and in created by ingredients like Russian birch, juniper, castoreum or synthetic substitutes. Here is a creative alternative.
There are some brighter notes in the opening, notably bergamot, with touches of coriander and rather thin lavender that is not impressive at all.
The drydown is dominated by the leather, which by now is not very harsh, with a sweet touch at times, and reminding me a bit of new Cordovan. There is a dark patchouli component present too, which gives the leather a softly tangy side, which is underlined by a touch of styrax. Later on a bit of cedar is added in.
The base sees the leather rescinding and giving in to a slightly sweet tonka-musk combination, mainly white musks.
After four hours of good silage and projection it moves closer to my skin, as as for longevity is concerned, on my skin it was thirteen hours and counting, which is superb.
This autumnal leather creation is an interesting flanker of the original A*Men. Maybe is is not not as unique as Pure Havane and Pure Malt, other flankers of the original, but it is nonetheless still quite convincing. 3.25/5