Aldehydes, mandarin, with lots of green notes spruced up by generous lashings of cumin - an opening that utilised rather disparate components nut nonetheless works together splendidly.  A delightful start, a bit tangy but smoothing soon.

The drydown is dominated by jasmine, carnation and geranium, in a classic chypre combination that is scintillatingly expressing the characteristics of a typical chypre, but applied in a special way.   Artemisia - with whiffs of vetiver - develops a bit later, but becomes quite strong  over time.  

Further down the track, the plot no really thickens.  The star of the next act is a lovely oakmoss - the real thing, a bit zesty not not really sharp on me - this is no Gucci Nobile.    the moss goes in tandem with an impressive patchouli, which, again, ins not particularly shark, and is endowed with a spicy cinnamon sweetness of a nigh oriental character in the background.

After that, the base develops a pleasant  and slightly tannin-strong leather impression, and together with the patchouli and the oakmoss I get an impressive finale.  

I get moderate sillage, excellent projection, and a longevity that varied in the different samples of different years I tried; the worst one was two hours, the best one over eight eight hours.   

A fresh and green fougere with a touch of leather.  Rich, full of details, composed of top-class ingredients and with a beautifully zesty-sweet-fresh-spicy bright balance.  Traditional and definitely worth seeking out.   Released 1988.  4/5