The Derby/Blucher Shoe

The main difference between the Oxford and the Derby is the open lacing, where the quarters with the lace eyelets that are sewn on top of the shoe vamp.  This reportedly the Prussian Field Marshal Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher thought to be more comfortable and commissioned it for his soldiers.   The term 'Blucher' is often heard in North America is exchange with Derby,  but some believe that the original Blucher had the eyelet tabs only are sewn onto a single-piece vamp and not the whole large quarters.  The Derby is more comfortable as it allows to accommodate more space inside, and to control the closeness of the fit better; see Field Marshal Blucher's choice above.


The Derby is less elegant and less formal than the Oxford.  The female version of the Derby is also called a Gibson.  A Chukka boot is always a Derby.


For the difference between open laced and closed laced shoes clicK on the link to the Oxford/Balmoral:

Typical Derby shoes:

The Aintree by Crockett & Jones, a beautiful 3 eyelet Derby from the Handgrade Collection with Oak Bark Soles.

This is a 2 eyelet Derby made by Ludwig Reiter
This is a 2 eyelet Derby made by Ludwig Reiter


Church's Shannon, made from polished binder, is a heavy and sturdy Derby with a double leather sole for rainy days.