SANTAL

The bright opening notes, bergamot with lemon & lime, is given a dark green by a traditional lavender that manages to mix with the night notes, resulting in a bright and green delight.  

As the drydown begins, so does the rise of the sandalwood.  Initially timid, is increases in statue gradually over time until it becomes the skeleton that holds this creation together; never hugely prominent - natural sandalwoods rarely are - but always essential.  Surrounded by an ever-changing set of ancillary notes, some white floral - orange and apple blossom, the a slightly spicy parade of caraway, anise, and tarragon, with a soft and smooth suede-like leather impression announcing the sliding into the the base notes.  

By now the sandal has fully developed; it is a smooth and unusually brightish compared to many other sandalwood by other houses.  Further towards the base, touches of cinnamon and oakmoss adds a crispier side, but without the harshness that such a combination might evoke in oneself, a herbal undertone in the patchouli - think basil and whiffs of thyme - adds extra depth.  The last stages turn sweeter when a tonka impression makes an appearance,  it the latter is not too heavy, intrusive or cloying.  

I get moderate sillage, good projection and a good seven hours of longevity on my skin

This is a complex autumnal sandalwood, in contrast other other sandalwood greats - think Creeds Bois de Santal that convinces as a Zen of Sandalwoods-  and at stage sone of the less central lack individuality and intensity, but the quality of the ingredients is very good, and some moments are quite unique.  The sandalwood note is beautiful.

Launched 1978.  Sadly discontinued.

3.75/5